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Taiwan has a rich, colorful history. It became a protectorate of the
Chinese Empire in 1206, the year the great Mongol conqueror Genghis Khan
founded the Yuan dynasty. The island was made a prefecture (county) of
the coastal mainland province of Fukien in 1684, and in 1885, during the
Ching or Manchu dynasty (China's last reigning house), Taiwan was
proclaimed a separate province of China.
For centuries Taiwan has been familiar to the West as Formosa, a name
derived from the 16th century Portuguese mariners who, on sighting the
island from a galleon, named it "IIha Formosa!" (Beautiful Island!). The
official Chinese name for the Pescadores (Fishermen's Isles), a name
also given by Portuguese mariners, is Penghu. The archipelago is located
in the Taiwan Strait, and forms one of the 16 counties of Taiwan
province.
The Dutch invaded Taiwan in 1624 and remained as colonists for 37
years. The Spanish invaded and occupied northemmost Taiwan in 1626, but
were driven out by the Dutch 16 years later in 1642. The Dutch were
finally dislodged in 1661 by invading forces from the mainland led by
the Ming dynasty loyalist Cheng Cheng- kung, whose latinized name,
Koxinga, derives from his ennoblement by the Ming court as Kuo Hsing Yeh,
or Lord of the Imperial Sumame. Koxinga hoped to use Taiwan as his base
in the fight to overthrow the Ching dynasty and restore the Ming
dynasty.
In 1884 the French occupied northemmost Taiwan following a dispute
with China over the Yunnan-Indochina border. In March 1885 they also
occupied the Pescadores, but withdrew from both the Pescadores and
Taiwan three months later under the terms of a treaty with China.
The Japanese went to war with China in 1894 following a dispute over
Korea. By the treaty of Shimonoseki, concluded in 1895, Taiwan and the
Pescadores were ceded to Japan. Under another provision, Korea, over
which China had exercised suzerainty, was declared independent and, as
expected, was subsequently annexed by Japan. Taiwan and the Pescadores
were restored to Chinese rule at the end of World War Ⅱ in 1945.
The principal city of Taiwan is Taipei, which since December 7, 1949,
has been the provisional capital of the Republic of China.
The Republic of China (ROC) was bom in the Wuchang Revolution which
erupted on October 10, 1911. The ROC was formally established on January
1, 1912 and brought the republican form of government to Asia. Dr. Sun
Yat-sen, the nation's founding father, sought to create a government "of
the people, by the people, and for the people" to replace the weak,
corrupt bureaucracy of the Ching dynasty
Mandarin Chinese is the Official language in Taiwan, though other
dialects are also spoken. Many people can speak some English, but most
taxi drivers do not speak English
  
The Republic of China's unit of currency is the New Taiwan dollar(NT$).
Foreign currencies can be exchanged at government-designated and private
banks andhotels. Receipts are given when currency is exchanged, and must
be presented in order to exchange unused NT dollars before departure.
Major credit cards are accepted and traveler's checks may be cashed
at some tourist-oriented businesses and by room guests at most
international tourist hotels.
 Making rice
dumplings for the festival celcebration
June is a great time for festivities in Taiwan. Temple celebrations,
folk art festivals, and the Dragon Boat Festival--all make Taiwan the
place to be this month. Several of the Chinese gods celebrate their
birthdays with elaborate temple festivities throughout the island; the
Lukang Folk Arts Festival is held in the southern city of the same name,
and the world-famous dragon boat races take place at venues across the
island.
Poetic Justice
In old China, the Dragon Boat Festival formed an integral part of the
Chinese lunar calendar and signalled the onset of summer (although by
June in Taiwan, summer has already been upon us for several weeks). The
festival commemorates the death of the statesman-poet Chu Yuan of the
Warring States Period (about 300 years before the birth of Christ), who,
frustrated with his attempts to gain a favorable response from the king
for much-needed reforms, threw himself into the Milo River and drowned.
His followers jumped into their boats and rushed out to try to save him,
and today's Dragon Boat races commemorate this vain attempt.
Another tradition of the season, stemming from this event, is the
eating of a delicious rice dumpling called tsung tze. After the poet had
thrown himself into the river, the people wanted to preserve his body
from being eaten by fish, so they made dumplings of sticky rice which
they wrapped in bamboo leaves and threw into the river. Eating tsung tze
is a part of the celebrations of every Dragon Boat Festival.
An Ounce of Prevention
The Chinese believe that the onset of summer is a prime time to catch
colds, so at this time mothers often make up little sachets containing
different spices to help ward off diseases. These colorful little
packets, called hsiang pao, are often intricately embroidered and are
fashioned in traditional and auspicious shapes. Many come in the shape
of animals, and children love to collect them. It is they who will wear
them around their necks to prevent catching colds.
In addition to the hsiang pao, sprigs of certain plants are gathered
and hung over the doorway of houses on this special day. This is done to
ward off evil and sickness throughout the summer months to come.
The Dragon Boat Festival falls on the fifth day of the fifth month on
the Chinese lunar calendar, a date which varies from year to year on the
Gregorian calendar. This year it will be on Friday, June 2nd, and, as
always, will be a national holiday. Dragon boat races, held at many
areas around the island, are a colorful spectacle which shouldn't be
missed by anyone who wants to learn more about Chinese festivals and
folk customs.
The best place to watch the festivities in Taipei is along the banks
of the Hsintien River near Chung Cheng Bridge. Thousands gather to watch
teams of rowers in their colorfully painted dragon boats as they vie for
the title of champion and the honor of taking home the "President's
Cup." The racers include workers from different companies, student teams
from several universities, and even competitors from other countries. It
is exciting to watch the skill and strength of the boatmen as they skim
their 12.95-meter (42.5 ft.) boats across the waters to snatch the flag
at the end of the course.
in addition to the races, there are demonstrations of folk arts and
crafts, plenty of food and drink--including, of course, tsung tze! Come
for a little while, or stay for the whole day; you will not be
disappointed. Activities get under way around 10:00 a.m. Bring your
lunch, a sun hat, sun screen and/or umbrella--and your camera.
Every year the Lunar New Year holiday triggers one of the world's
largest mass migrations as Chinese from all over the globe join with
family and friends to celebrate the most joyous holiday of all.
Airports, trains, bus stations, and roads are jammed and businesses
close down for over a week as people take time off to feast and
celebrate.
With restaurants closed and streets nearly empty of
traffic--something hard to imagine in the midst of Taipei's nearly
round-the-clock rush hour--Taipei resembles a ghost town during the
first five days of the holiday as people stay at home or head south to
visit their families living in small towns around the island. Apart from
the fireworks, the unaccustomed hush seems broken by little more than
the rattling of dice and mah jong pieces heard from apartment windows.
The start of the New Year holiday has always been a quiet time
centering around family gatherings at home. Ancestors are often
remembered with a setting of their own at the table, symbolizing
togetherness of the generations, and special foods are prepared and
eaten. New Year's Eve is customarily spent with the family, and New
Year's Day in visiting friends. On the second day of the New Year,
married daughters return home to visit their parents. Considered an
unlucky day to go out, the third day is often spent at home as family
members try out their New Year's luck playing mah jong and other games.
The gods return from their celestial vacation on the fourth day, and on
the fifth day businesses start to reopen and the normal routine of life
begins to resume
NEW YEAR DISH
The Taiwan Lantern Festival Brings the New
Year to an End
The traditional Yuan Siao Festival falls on the 15th day of the first
lunar month, and since its activities center around lanterns it is also
called the Lantern Festival. It marks the end of the Chinese New Year
season, and so is also known as the "Little New Year." It is celebrated
throughout Taiwan with a wide range of local festivities designed to
solicit blessings and bring happiness, including the eating of yuan siao
dumplings, the observation of decorative lanterns of all kinds, the
guessing of "lantern riddles," the sending aloft of "heavenly lanterns,"
and the shooting off of "beehive rockets."
The 2003 Taiwan Lantern Festival will present this folk celebration and
advance the island's internationalization through the display of all
kinds of decorative lanterns, domestic and foreign folk performances,
and the native, traditional, modern, and technological aspects of
central Taiwan. At the same time, the festivities will provide
entertainment for the whole family and provide opportunities for
education as well
It goes without saying that vegetarian cuisine
holds an important position in Chinese gastronomic culture. In Taipei
alone, there are over 300 exclusively vegetarian restaurants, tea
houses, and cafeterias, serving up their fare to vegetarians and
omnivores alike. Most of these eateries are easily recognized by the
backwards swastika that adorns Buddhist establishments in Taiwan. In
fact, vegetarian restaurants are so prevalent that Taipei residents and
guests can easily satisfy a craving for vegetable edibles in virtually
any part of the city.
For some people in the West, the word "vegetarian" may still evoke
images of California hippies and passing fads. For Chinese people,
however, vege-tarianism is viewed in terms of its long and venerable
history, which is rooted in the ancient philosophical and religious
beliefs of Taoism and Buddhism.
As early as the sixth century B.C., Taoist theory encouraged people
to seek harmony with nature by leading a simple, balanced life,
sustained by a predominately vegetarian diet. Buddhist teachings, which
reached China in the first century B.C., reinforced much of the Taoist
world view, including its preference for the vegetarian regimen. In
particular, the Buddhist code of ahimsa (non-injury) prohibited Bud-dhists
from killing living creatures for food.
Phoenix Eyes with Dragon Rolls has a tofu
base sprinkled with nuts, green peas, and cherries.
Vegetarin dishes which feature as a sample
of Japanese cuisine.
Five Item Cold Cuts features assorted tofu
textures and colors.
Taipei Vegetarians
There are potentially as many reasons for becoming a vegetarian as
there are vegetarians in the world. Religion, compassion for animals,
concern about ecological balance, and health are those most frequently
cited by Taipei's vegetarian residents.
Young Chinese looking for ways to nurture the spiritual side of their
lives are turning to Buddhism in growing numbers. Reuters correspondent
James Peng became a devout Buddhist in 1990, left his job, and embarked
on a six-month private meditation at home. Today he is a vegetarian.
"The Buddhist belief in karma and reincarnation is behind the religion's
compassion for animals," he explains. "In this life you might be human,
but in the next one you could be an animal or a spirit. So the animal
you eat may be your mother, your brother, your wife, or your child from
a previous incarnation."
Buddhist monks and nuns are vegetarian without exception. Believers,
on the other hand, are allowed more flexibility. Cheng Chen Kun, chief
chef at the well known Kuan Shih Yin vegetarian restaurant, notes that
there are even special terms for those Buddhists who restrict their diet
only in the morning, chi tsao chai, and those who avoid meat only on the
first and fifteenth of each month, chuyi shihwu. Predictably, he says,
Kuan Shih Yin gets quite busy on these dates.
Good Fortune Wheel is made of stuffed
hefen, tofu, green peas, and cherries.
Bird's Nest Tofu Shrimp has spicy tofu in
a sparrow's nest of noodles.
Many non-Buddhist vegetarians share the Buddhist compassion for
animals. Sheron Steele, a counselor at the Taipei American School,
became a vegetarian 20 years ago when her six-year-old son came home
from school one day and said he was not going to eat anything that
suffered, bled, or died anymore. Today she emphasizes the need to have
compassion, not only for animals, but also for our "fellow humans" who
may be in jeopardy themselves due to overpopulation, depletion of fossil
fuels, and potential climatic change. "A vegetarian diet," she urges,
"is far more efficient than a meat-based one. It takes many pounds of
grain to produce just one pound of beef. And grain and bean combinations
can provide better quality protein than you get from meat alone."
In Taiwan, as in the West, more and more people are adopting a
vegetarian lifestyle for the healthy effects it can have on their
spiritual and physical well-being. Burton Huang of the Chinatrust
Commercial Bank studied nutrition at college and finally made the
decision to become a vegetarian four years ago, half for religious
reasons, half for health reasons. "A vegetarian diet reduces the risk of
high cholesterol, diabetes, heart disease, and high blood pressure," he
notes. Indeed, studies show that vegetarians live longer and suffer
fewer diseases than others, thanks in part to the lower levels of
saturated animal fat and higher levels of fiber that their diets
contain.
First Class Tofu Abalone includes
mushrooms, mustard stalk, and cherries.
Noble Ham is tofu with cabbage greens.
Shredded Pigeon includes assorted
vegetables and nuts.
Vegetarian steamed stuffed buns are
assorted with baked snacks.
Restaurants and Cuisine
According to most accounts, Taipei is a good place to maintain a
vegetarian lifestyle, thanks to the city's many vegetarian restaurants
and also to the general respect that the Taiwanese accord vegetarians.
For foreigners who don't speak Chinese, it can be difficult in the
beginning, says Tammy Turner of Pristine Communications. "People tend to
offer you the best meat on the table, and not knowing how to refuse is
tough. 'Vegetarian' is one of the first words I learned to say. If you
can speak Chinese, Taiwan is a very easy place to be one.
Diana Bower, a student at National Taiwan Normal University's
Mandarin Training Center, agrees. "When people in Taipei hear that I am
a vegetarian, they often say, 'Oh great! Let's go to the vegetarian
restaurant that I like.' This wouldn't happen in the United States.
Vegetarians have a wide variety of Chinese restaurants to choose from
in Taipei. Buffet-style establishments like the Tian Wei Natural
Vegetarian Cafeteria (39 Tienmu E. Road) serve wholesome food in a
casual atmosphere. At the other end of the spectrum are more up-scale
restaurants like Kuan Shih Yin (29 Minchuan E. Rd., Sec. 2) and Fa Hua
(132 Minchuan E. Rd., Sec. 3), which offer patrons a dining experience
rivaling the best non-vegetarian Chinese feasts in refinement of both
taste and presentation.
Chinese vegetarian chefs adhere to the same principles of cookery
governing master chefs in other Chinese cuisines. To maintain the
essential yin-yang balance, they are careful to embody in each dish a
variety of tastes, textures, colors, and aromas. Just as most Chinese
chefs include a meat ingredient even in their "vegetable" dishes,
vegetarian chefs often use a "meaty" ingredient--meaty in texture, that
is--and, of course, derived from a vegetable source. Tofu is the key in
this respect, and chefs use it in a multitude of forms, including
regular tofu, pressed tofu, tofu custard, bean whey skin, and others.
Keeping this in mind, customers at Taipei's vegetarian restaurants need
not be surprised to discover items like Fa Hua's "Shredded Pigeon" and
"Spicy Shrimp," or Kuan Shih Yin's "Five Item Cold Cuts" and "Noble
Ham."
The Chinese word for vegetarian food, sushih, suggests a cuisine that
is "pure, plain, and simple." Despite the name, Taipei's vegetarian
cuisine, in all its variety, reflects the many centuries that have gone
into developing one of Chinese cooking's most delightful genres, one
that can be plain but is often refined and elaborate. Wherever you
choose to eat vegetarian in Taipei, you can be sure that the experience
will be an enriching one--physically.
In the winter season, when chilly temperatures and frigid winds
prevail over the land, people like to eat food that instantly warms
their bodies and lifts their spirits. For that, the hot pot is a
delicious and hearty choice. Families or groups of friends sit around a
table and eat from a steaming pot in the middle, cooking and drinking
and chatting. Eating hot pot is not a passive activity: diners must
select morsels of prepared raw food from plates scattered around the
table, place them in the pot, wait for them to cook, fish them out of
the soup, dip them in the preferred sauce, and then eat them hot, fresh,
and tender. They can also ladle up the broth from the pot and drink it.
Hong Kong Hot Pot
While the cooking is in progress there's some waiting, so the diners
may sip a little hard liquor. A togetherness ensues, which soothes their
hearts. Weilu--to 'circle' a hot pot--has a deep and profound meaning to
the Chinese, who are gregarious and strongly emphasize family and clan.
It is cozy, yet informal. It's not a banquet, yet it can take as much
time as one. It uses a single pot, yet is varied in ingredients, sauces,
and cooking styles.
Korea Stone Hot Pot (Photo by Chen
Chih-wei)
The hot pot (huokuo) has a long history in China. It originated in
the north, where people have to fend off the chill early in the year. It
spread to the south during the Tang dynasty (A.D. 618-906). Later,
northern nomads who settled in China enhanced the pot with beef and
mutton, and southerners did the same with seafood. In the Ching dynasty,
the hot pot became popular throughout the whole area of China.
The pot itself is usually ceramic or metal. In the past, charcoal was
the fuel of choice. Nowadays people use mostly gas or electricity for
this purpose; only the most nostalgic use charcoal. Alcohol is also used
occasionally. Some of the pots are equipped with a chimney in the middle
along with a valve for controlling the size of the flame.
Thai Hot Pot
The soup stock is prepared well beforehand and is made by boiling
beef, pork, or chicken bones. Meat, seafood, vegetables, tofu, and bean
noodles are the most popular ingredients. Freshness commands. Pork,
beef, and chicken are often presented side by side; mutton is less
frequently used. Meat should not be cooked too long; otherwise it will
lose its tenderness. It's best for the meat to be cut as thin as paper,
and that's why a sizable piece of meat often shrinks to a small bite
after being boiled.
Seafood usually includes shrimp, crab, oysters, clams, squid,
cuttlefish, and fish fillet. To make sure the morsels do not drift away
or sink to the bottom or hide somewhere, a strainer in which each diner
can hold onto his or her delicacies is recommended. Meat, seafood, and
egg come in ball or ravioli-like form.
Thai desserts to cool you down after your
hot pot.
Popularly used vegetables are cabbage, spinach, turnip, green onions,
celery, and lettuce. Lettuce is a special favorite among diners for its
tender, crispy, and sweet nature. People use a variety that does not
have a head and whose leaves are dark green, resembling those of
chrysanthemums. Fresh vegetables should be boiled only lightly.
Mushrooms of various kinds, dried or fresh, are widely used, as are
dried lily flowers. Bean curd and bean noodles serve as more than just
fillers. They do not have much taste themselves, but they absorb the
richness of the other ingredients. Bean noodles are usually cooked later
to help finish up the soup. Some people put plain rice into the last of
the soup to make a porridge. Consistent with Chinese culinary thrift,
nothing is wasted.
Korea Stone Hot Poti (Photo by Chen
Chih-wei.)
The sauces are also pre-prepared. Some are personal concoctions;
while most consist of soy sauce, vinegar, and hot pepper, some people
like to beat a fresh egg, or just the white of it, into the sauce. Like
other Chinese cuisine, various kinds of hot pot from the mainland have
congregated in Taiwan since the arrival of mainlanders in 1949. The
Taiwanese have also developed their own styles and have even imported
foreign varieties. In Taiwan today, Korean, Japanese, Thai, and Swiss
hot pots exist alongside Chinese ones.
Shacha Hot Pot
The Cantonese shacha hot pot is perhaps the most popular style in Taiwan
(it is also popular in Southeast Asia). Its sauce consists of dried
shrimp, peanuts, garlic, hot pepper, tea leaves, and salt. The sauce is
also used in cooking other dishes and is mildly hot. Soy sauce and fresh
raw egg are usually added to it to make a dip. This style of hot pot
makes use of almost all of the ingredients mentioned above.
Chrysanthemum and Mutton Hot Pots
Both chrysanthemum and mutton hot pots are Peking style. Chrysanthemum
flowers are harbingers of coldness. Back in the old days when
chrysanthemums bloom, it was considered the time to start eating hot
pot. The principle ingredients are shrimp, thin slices of pork kidney
and liver, and fish fillet. These take little time to boil, so alcohol
was once used as the fuel for its low heat intensity. When the alcohol
burns under the pot, the flames flare out in the shape of a
chrysanthemum blossom, and mum leaves are actually scattered into the
pot to add a touch of the flavor of the plant.
Mutton hot pot is a legacy of the northern nomads. In Japan it' s
called "Genghis Khan cuisine." Sheep grow large in the north, and their
meat tends to be tender and less rank. Shuanyangjou (lightly boiled
mutton) has long been an enduring item in Peking food restaurants.
Szechwan Hot Pot Also called maotu (hairy stomach) hot pot, like many
other dishes of this province, Szechwan hot pot is noted for its
spiciness. The pepper oil added to the stock keeps it hot in more than
one sense, since it acts as an insulator on the surface of the soup.
Special ingredients of this pot are beef tripe, beef marrow, and pig
brain. Bring a handkerchief to wipe away your tears as you eat it.
Stone Hot Pot
Hot pot is popular in Japan and Korea, and is becoming popular in
Southeast Asia as well. Japanese hot pot, like other Japanese dishes,
tends to be light in flavor, while Korean hot pot, like other Korean
dishes, tends to be heavy. Koreans love both hot pepper and garlic.
The stone pot is carved from a piece of solid rock. Its wall is more
than an inch thick, and it is characterized by consistency and evenness
of the heat. The most famous stone hot pot in Taipei is that of the
23-year old H&ST (Hanhsiangtsun) restaurants at 25 Chinchou St. (Tel:
511-2252) and four other locations. The pot came from Korea, but it has
been altered by chefs to suit local tastes. The sauce is concocted by
the diner using green onion, garlic paste, pepper powder, soy sauce,
vinegar, raw egg yolk, and shacha. Added to the soup stock are a score
of herbs; fried taro is a popular addition.
Thai Hot Pot
When we talk about Thai hot pot, we have to mention the hot pot served
in Coca restaurants. Coca is a latecomer to Taipei, however, since the
first Coca restaurant was opened in Bangkok in 1957. It has quickly
grown into an international chain with more than 30 branches in
Singapore, Indonesia, Malaysia, Japan, and Taiwan as well as its home
country. The one in Taipei is located at B1, 223 Tunhua S. Rd., Sec. 1
(Tel: 731-0280.)
The most special thing about Coca hot pot is a secret combination of
hot, sour, and sweet sauces. The soup stock is made by boiling whole
chickens and turnips, making it sweet and light. Meats used include
beef, pork, and chicken; seafood encompasses crab, abalone, pomfret,
prawn, oyster, scallop, squid, and jellyfish; there are seaweed rolls,
shrimp wanton, and stuffed squid.
There are many other kinds of hot pot emphasizing beef or seafood, or
using milk as soup stock. Some food booths in department stores offer
one-person hot pots. Hot pot can be enjoyed anywhere, anytime, by
anyone--as long as the dining room is somewhat air-conditioned.
Swiss "Hot Pot"
By Conard Oust
 The art of making fondue
has a similar heritage to Taiwan hot pot but from a distinctly European
perspective. The end result is quite different, but fondues could be
considered to resemble hot pots because of the look of the pots and the
cooking style. They are hot, and they are pots. The Chalet Wienerhaus at
40 Peining Road (Tel: 577-8464) in Taipei offers three kinds of fondue.
This Swiss restaurant was opened 15 years ago by a Swiss gentleman, and
its fondues have been steadily gaining popularity among the people who
frequent the hot pot kingdom.
The cheese fondue here is bread chunks dipped into melted Swiss "aclette"
cheese seasoned with garlic flakes and white wine, served in a ceramic
pot. The combination of the smells of cheese, garlic, and wine keeps
some people away while addicting others. In the Bourguignon fondue,
morsels of prawn, beef tenderloin, or chicken breast are deep-fried in
olive oil in a stainless steel pot and then dipped in mayonnaise, Tartar
sauce, catsup with garlic, or a sauce made of egg yolk, black pepper, or
curry.
The tenderness and juiciness of the meat, the flavor of olive oil,
and the variety of sauces make this fondue special and enticing. In
chocolate fondue, bite-sized pieces of fruit are coated with chocolate
melted in a fondue cooker. The result is wonderful for the sweet tooth.
All the pots are fueled by alcohol. The fondue craze hasn't really taken
off here in Taiwan; but who knows with the acceptance of other foreign
ideas and tastes, it could become a new fad.
One of the most celebrated varieties of
this popular food is the Lai Lai Sheraton's Taiwan-style beef noodle
soup.
The very term "beef noodle soup" could be misleading. Beef noodle
soup as it is served in Taiwan has little in common with dishes bearing
the same name in the West. And for many Chinese, one bowl plus a side
dish or two it is a meal in itself. In its heyday, from the 1960s to the
1980s, beef noodle soup was enjoyed by both the upper and the lower
strata of Taiwanese society. Served in large bowls filled with beef,
vegetables, and noodles, it has become one of Taiwan's most popular
varieties of food.
Beef noodle soup originated in northern China, where wheat has long
been the staple crop. Thus eating beef and noodles has been customary
since time immemorial. Beef noodles gradually found its way south and
reached Taiwan on a significant scale in 1949, when two million
Nationalist Chinese fled the mainland, taking refuge from the
communists. To make a living in the new land, many of these refugees set
up stalls selling foods from their homelands; beef noodle soup soon
became one of the most popular. Prior to the arrival of mainlanders,
most Taiwanese were opposed to eating beef. They saw oxen, which were
essential to the agricultural economy, as important benefactors. Not
eating beef was a means of expressing gratitude.
The Good Old Days
In the Taipei of the 1950s, most beef noodle soup stalls were
concentrated in the old downtown area near the Nanyang Street arcades
and in some spots in Hsimenting, but many have long since disappeared.
The oldest surviving establishments in Taipei are those in or around the
Food Circle on Nanking West Road, Lao Tung's on Kunming Street, and the
fine noodle houses on Taoyuan Street.
From the 1960s to the 1980s, many new establishments gained
reputations for delicious beef noodles. They were Yungkang Beef Noodles
at the East Gate, Yipin on Kunming Street, Moslem Halal on Poai Road,
Lao Chang Tantan Noodles on Jenai Road, and various shops on Chengchou
Street to the north of the Taipei Railway Station.
Szuchuan-style--Spicy Hot
Many restaurants that serve excellent beef
noodle soup make their own noodles.
Most beef noodle soup in Taiwan is of the Szuchuan variety. Its meat
is braised in soy sauce, and served in a spicy dark red soup. Two
excellent places to try this variety are Yungkang Beef Noodles and Lao
Chang Beef Noodles, located side by side at 17 and 19 Chinshan South
Road, Section 2, Lane 31.
"To make a bowl of good beef noodle soup, the soup and meat must be
cooked separately," insists Charlie Chang, executive sous-chef at the
Lai Lai Sheraton Hotel's food and beverage division. The broth, explains
Chiang Chih-lun, chef at Hsiao Er Ta, "is made by boiling mainly beef
bones." These principles apply to all styles of beef noodle soup. For
the Szuchuan-style, marbled sirloin complete with tendon is cut in
chunks and boiled with sliced beans, ginger, garlic, and chili peppers.
Nowadays many people, especially younger generations, cannot eat much
chili pepper, so various degrees of hotness have been adopted. Some
chefs even substitute tomatoes for chili peppers for their similar
reddish color. The addition of tomato adds a slight acidity and
sweetness, which further stimulates the appetite.
Northern-style
Red peppers, sliced green onions, and
pickled cabbage are served on the side to assure just the right blend of
flavors.
The northern Chinese-style beef noodle soup is made with clear broth.
Chinese northerners, especially Moslems, are skilled at raising cattle
and really know beef. The beef they choose is much less likely to have
too strong of a taste. It does, however, have a rich flavor. With
northern-style noodle soup, the beef's natural flavor is fully
pronounced, so the selection and preparation of the meat requires
particular care.
Moslem Halal Beef Noodles on Poai Road now has a branch at 21 Yenping
South Road and another at 41 Chunghsiao East Road, Section 4, Lane 223.
The beef they use is all supplied by local orthodox Halal butchers, who
recite the Koran to purify the soul of the animal and follow Moslem
codes when slaughtering it. Only meat prepared in this way is allowed in
a Moslem restaurant, and a notice reminding patrons to refrain from
bringing in uncertified food from the outside is posted clearly on the
wall. Like most other excellent noodle houses, the noodles at the Moslem
Halal are hand-made.
How do you make a bowl of good northern-style noodle soup? "Choosing
excellent meat is most important," says Mrs. Chiang. Imported frozen
beef will not do, it loses its texture after it's been thawed. Chiang
claims that the beef she uses is from local "free-range" cattle. She and
her spouse formerly worked at the well-known Hsiao Er Ta restaurant in
Taichung before its closure. Recently, they opened two restaurants by
the same name in Taipei at 1 Chunghsiao East Road, Section 4, Lane 235,
and 6-1 Hsinyang Street.
Local Varieties
A ubiquitous dish, beef noodle soup is
typically eaten not in high-class resturants but in open-air street
stalls. This price list shows a large bowl costing sligthly more than
US$2.
Taiwanese-style beef noodles are combinations of various styles;
chefs can have vastly different recipes. The most celebrated
Taiwanese-style beef noodles in Taipei are perhaps served at the Lai Lai
Sheraton Hotel's Four Seasons Cafe (12 Chunghsiao East Road, Section 1).
A few enthusiastic local food critics have even exclaimed that the Lai
Lai Sheraton has single-handedly turned beef noodle soup into a gourmet
dish. The beef used is a mixture of rib and tendon; the meat is tender
and juicy, while the tendon is pliant and pleasing to the palate.
Seasoned with a trace of herbs, the soup is fresh and sweet.
Accompanied by finely chopped pickled mustard greens and red chilies,
this beef noodle soup has the look of Szuchuan-style soup but is
genuinely Taiwanese. Over the past 45 years, beef noodle soup has both
adapted considerably and become extremely popular in Taiwan. According
to travelers returning from visits to mainland China, beef noodles are
hard to find and the Taiwan version bears little resemblance to its
predecessor. Although the mainland is the place where the soup
originated, perhaps Taiwan has become its true home.
Whenever there is a Chinese dinner in Taiwan,
whether in the most expensive restaurant or at the humblest streetsied
stand, the diners will most likely wash down their food with generous
draughts of ice-cold Taiwan Beer. Or, alternatively, with smaller
portions of grainy, warm Shaohsing wine. These are the two most popular
drinks produced by the Taiwan Tobacco and Wine Monopoly Bureau (TTWMB),
which for half a century has been satisfying the island's thirst for
alcoholic beverages and its taste for tobacco products.
 The TTWMB came into being
when Taiwan was returned to Chinese administration in 1945, after 50
years of Japanese occupation, and celebrated its golden anniversary last
year. Its cigarette brands are by far the most popular in Taiwan: Long
Life, Triumph, Prosperity Island, President. Its line of alcoholic
beverages has been greatly expanded in recent years to include not only
wines and beers but also such foreign spirits as whiskey and brandy.
Plum and lychee wines
TTWMB brandies
A series of grape and other fruit wines have been introduced in
relatively recent years: lychee wine, plum wine, white wine, sparkling
wine, red wine, rose wine, and honey grape wine (a sweet wine made from
white wine and honey). These are not likely ever to gain much of a
footing in the world market. Nor is Taiwan Brandy or its derivatives,
interesting though they may be: Tea Brandy, to which Oolong tea imparts
a light thirst-quenching taste, and Pineau, which combines aged brandy
with grape juice.
Splendid Spirits
 The TTWMB's claim to fame,
however, is indisputably founded on its beers as well as its traditional
Chinese wines and spirits. The most traditional of all is probably
Shaohsing wine, which was first produced in southern China during the
Ming dynasty (A.D. 1386-1644). Made mainly of glutinous rice, it is
matured in earthen jars before being bottled and marketed. Some of the
product is aged several years and bottled as Shaohsing V.O. Hua Tiau
Wine is very similar to Shaohsing, though considered better in quality,
with some wheat added to the fermenting mixture.
More famous among foreigners, perhaps, is Kao Liang, a clear, fiery
spirit distilled from sorghum on the fortress island of Kinmen just off
the coast of mainland China. No one who tries Kao Liang can ever forget
its burning course down the gullet. Even stronger is a related beverage
that mixes wheat with the sorghum and has an alcoholic content of about
66 percent.
 With the addition of a bit
of sugar and spice, another famous spirit is produced: Mau Tai, the
drink with which foreign dignitaries were invariably favored when they
visited mainland China in the early years following that area's opening
up to the West.
 Kao Liang is combined with
various other ingredients to make a number of unique liqueurs. One of
these, quite strong, is Chu Yeh Ching (Bamboo Leaf Green), an aromatic
liqueur containing sugar along with the essence of bamboo leaves and
other plants. Seng Yong is a mellow medicinal drink containing natural
plants as well as ginseng and deer antlers. A more traditional drink is
the sweet Ng Ka Py, supposedly high in nutrition, made with maltose,
cane sugar, and various plants.
Product Development
 The TTWMB's Research and
Development Institute is constantly working on other products to satisfy
changing tastes and to keep up with international trends. One of these
trends is toward milder products, both tobacco and alcoholic. Already,
light varieties of cigarettes are on the market, as is Taiwan Beer Lite
and Shandy, a beer cooler. One of the newest products is Aroma Kao Liang,
an especially fine variety of this standby spirit with an alcoholic
content of just 45%.
Visitors to Taiwan will notice the attractive porcelain bottles in
which Kao Liang and many of its derivatives are often packaged. These
containers are almost art objects in themselves, worthy of taking home
and displaying as souvenirs--even if the contents are left untouched.
The porcelain bottles are produced at the Kinmen pottery plant; many of
them are designed for special commemorative occasions, such as Double
Ten National Day, and some are patterned after art treasures in the
collection of the National Palace Museum.
In addition to being marketed in Taiwan, the products of the TTWMB
are also exported to more than 50 countries and regions throughout the
world. The biggest export markets are Japan and the United States, and
the most popular exports are Taiwan Beer (some of which is marketed in
the U.S. under the China Beer brand) and Shaohsing wine.
Not so long ago the bureau's monopoly status was absolute; it handled
all domestic production and marketing of tobacco and alcoholic products.
This provided a vital source of income for the government in earlier
years; at one time the monopoly provided as much as 8 percent of all
government revenues. That figure is now down to just under 3 percent,
but the amount is still very substantial. Last year, for example, the
bureau turned NT$68 billion (US$2.45 billion at NT$27.5=US$1) over to
the government treasury.
Taiwan's market for tobacco and alcoholic products was opened up to
international competition 10 years ago, but the monopoly bureau is still
doing very well. The beer it produces now has to compete for buyers with
203 imported brands. But Taiwan Beer still accounts for almost 90% of
all domestic sales.
Gradual Privatization
This dominant position will undoubtedly change when local production, as
well as marketing, is opened up to free competition. And the TTWMB,
which now operates as an agency of the Taiwan Provincial Government,
will become history.
 To start with, reports
the TTWMB's secretary general, Martin M.L. Tsai, the bureau's operations
will be split into two parts, administration and production. The
administrative function will be turned over to the Ministry of Finance.
If everything goes according to plan, the production arm will be
corporatized within two years. It will initially operate as a government
enterprise but will later be turned over into private hands.
These changes will have obvious disadvantages; with free competition,
the production volume of the bureau--or rather, its reincarnation as a
corporation--will inevitably decline. But there will be advantages too,
Tsai stresses: "As a corporation, we'll have more flexibility; we'll be
better able to respond to market changes and to compete in a free-market
situation." To cope with the new challenges, the secretary general
continues, "We'll strengthen exports, and we'll expand into other
products such as foodstuffs and beverages--perhaps in cooperation with
foreign companies. We may also go into other related items such as
pharmaceuticals and agricultural products."
The challenges, however difficult, will no doubt be overcome and the
bureau, in its changed form, will continue supplying the people of
Taiwan and the world with products designed to please the Chinese
palate. In years to come, diners in Chinese restaurants will still be
complementing their food with the matchless taste of Taiwan Beer and
Shaohsing wine.
 
 Taiwanese
food, at its heart, is a simple, rustic cuisine which makes the best use
of the most naturally abundant ingredients. It has enjoyed somewhat of a
revival in the past few years. Two basic influences have driven the
development of Taiwanese cuisine: the unique geography of Taiwan, and
international influences.
Natural resources have always been limited in Taiwan. The island's
population density of 582 people per square kilometer is even more
staggering considering that only 20% of the land is arable, with the
rest being mountainous terrain. With such limited farmland, people rely
on the sea to provide the essential proteins. The dominant role of fish
and other seafood continues in contemporary Taiwanese bill of fare. To
give you an idea of the importance of seafood, Taiwan's fisheries
harvested 1.46 million metric tons of it in 1990.
The scarcity of natural resources has made for hard living on the
island. Taiwanese people as young as 30 years old can often recall their
childhoods in which there was not enough rice to go around--so sweet
potatoes or taro roots had to be used as a supplement making a soupy
rice in order to fill everyone's bowl. This "congee" with root
vegetables is a classic Taiwanese dish. Many traditional dishes show
similar innovation: A soup with pork bones, pineapple, and bitter melon,
for example. As the Taiwanese had to make do with very little, they
showed remarkable adaptiveness and creativity when it came to cuisine.
Stir-fried pork liver; parsely is used
widely in Taiwanese cuisine.
Pickled cucumber , an enticing appetized.
Fried fry and peanuts, good for gum
exercise.
Love of the New
Taiwanese have also shown an insatiable curiosity when it comes to
new things. From the Japanese, they discovered "miso"--the fermented
soybean paste used as a nutritious flavoring in Japanese cuisine--which
doesn't exist in any other Chinese cookery. A classic Taiwanese/Japanese
dish is miso-grilled fish, a pungently flavored fish with a slightly
sweet sauce that tastes wonderful with plain rice.
Taiwanese cuisine on the whole tends to be less spicy than Szechuan
in the west but more spicy than food from northern China. Simple cooking
methods predominate, where the ingredients are prepared once, then
served--unlike the more elaborate Shanghai or Cantonese cuisines, which
often require several preparatory steps, recombinations, and
permutations before the final dish emerges. Most common are the congee
variations with different root vegetables, which are eaten with a
delectable selection of side dishes and rice.
Traditional side dishes include omelette with pickled radishes,
stir-fried small fish with peanuts, various soybean curd dishes, and
pickled vegetables. Traditional congee can be enjoyed in Taipei along
Fuhsing South Road, just south of the Hsinyi Road intersection. Five or
six eateries there open their doors at about noon and stay open until 6
a.m. At each, patrons are invited to select their side dishes from as
many as 100 varieties. A pot of congee with sweet potatoes awaits
patrons at the table, and the pot can be refilled as often as one
wishes. This is an extremely economical way of eating, for one feels
quite full after just a bowl or two of congee--and, it is healthy too.
Sauteed shrimp, requiring only a couple of
chews.
Omelete with pickled radishes, a dish to
which many Taiwanese are addicted.
San Pei("three cup")Cuttle-fish; basil is
a very important ingredient in Taiwanese cuisine.
Tasty Innovations
For the main dishes, the Taiwanese show their usual inventiveness in
the selection of spices. In addition to the ever-present soy sauce, rice
wine and sesame oil, Taiwanese cuisine relies on an abundant array of
seasonings for flavor: Black beans, pickled radishes, peanuts, chili
peppers, parsley, and a local variety of basil ("nine story tower"). The
resulting dishes thus combine and layer interesting taste sensations
which make Taiwanese cuisine simple in format yet complex in experience.
After seafood, chicken is the second most popular meat. Beef, pork, and
lamb are eaten but not with as much regularity nor in the same volume as
either seafood or chicken. Seafood encompasses the wealth of variations
in nature, from grouper to tuna, from sardines to tiny fish the length
of a thumbnail. Cuttlefish and squid are very popular and prepared in
any number of ways: Grilled, stir-fried, and as an ingredient of stews.
A popular traditional chicken dish is San Pei chicken, literally
meaning "three cup chicken." The oral history of the dish recounts that
one cup each of soy sauce, rice wine, and sesame oil were placed in an
earthenware pot on low heat at dawn of a day of work in the fields. By
dusk, the dish had simmered into a delightful stew flavored with "nine
story tower" and eaten with either rice or congee. Frog and other meats
can easily be substituted for chicken without detracting at all from the
enjoyment of the dish.
Bite-size fried bean curd.
Beer houses are popular eating and
drinking places in Taiwan.
Jen Ping, a favorite snack of night market
goers.
Where to Eat
For a more rustic atmosphere, which recreates what dining out in
Taipei might have been like a few decades ago, Black Brother Dog
Restaurant is worth a visit. Operated by a group of five friends (the
name of the restaurant comes from Taiwanese slang referring to young
toughs who hang out together), the restaurant features a relaxed display
of antiques on the first floor and dining areas on the second and third
stories. Located at #15-2 Hoping East Road, Section 1 (Tel. 391-9934),
the restaurant is open from noon to about 3 a.m.
Beer or sweet plum tea is drunk out of mismatched ceramic bowls. The
restaurant is furnished with an eclectic assortment of benches, chairs,
and tables, which lends a feeling of friendly disorder to the place.
Service is casual, but generally friendly. Most of the menu consists of
traditional Taiwanese dishes; but if you're craving something in
particular, the kitchen generally seems quite amenable.
For a more upscale Taiwanese dining experience, the success of the
Green Leaf chain of restaurants suggests that they are doing something
right. In the heart of Taipei's downtown, there is one at 5F, #87,
Chunghsiao East Road, Section 4 (Tel: 751-1055/711-5073). Others: Corner
of Hsinyi and Kuangfu South roads; Hsinsheng South Road between
Chunghsiao and Jenai roads. Open almost 24 hours (they close for a few
hours before dawn), Green Leaf restaurants offer a more polished
interior, and all the cutlery and furniture match. Photos accompany most
of the menu items for easy reference. The service is abrupt but
efficient, and prices are somewhat steep.
The third type of venue is the beer house. Beer houses in Taiwan
offer an acoustically-challenging dining experience but are a popular
choice for any large group of people unsure of where best to eat.
Generally catering to a younger crowd, beer houses offer casual ambiance
and basic traditional Taiwanese fare. One of the more well-known
establishments in Taipei is Indian. The result of three painstaking
years of interior decorating, Indian combines American Indian motifs
with faux dinosaur bones (from Pterodactyls hanging from the ceiling to
a large vertebrate of some unidentified giant of a creature which
doubles as your stool) to interesting effect. Indian is located at #196
Pateh Road, Section 2 (Tel: 741-0550).
Some of the best Taiwanese food, though, is not found in restaurants.
Rather it should be enjoyed on the street at the many night markets in
and around Taipei. The largest and most established night markets
generally get started at around 7 p.m. and go on until about midnight.
The Huahsi street market is probably the most famous, and Shihlin night
market, in the northwest corner of greater Taipei, is also worth a
visit.
If you have the chance, be sure to try a Jen Ping . These are
generally sold by vendors with aluminum push carts at night markets. The
Jen Ping starts with a crepe-like wheat flour wrapping which is filled
with bean sprouts, cabbage, other vegetables, pork, and parsley, and
given a topping of peanut powder. This combination is then wrapped to
look like an unfried egg roll and consumed as such. It should cost about
NT$25 to NT$30 and won't fill you so much so that you can't try some of
the other mouth-watering treats to be found at the markets.
The subject of a well-known song, Alishan is one of Taiwan's top
tourist resorts and well worth a visit. The area is famous among
residents and visitors as one of Taiwan's best places to watch the
sunrise. The views are impressive in practically every direction. Craggy
mountain peaks jut out of a sea of fluffy white clouds, which gradually
turn a fiery mass of purples, reds, and oranges in a magnificent light
show created by the first rays of dawn as the sun rises above the peaks.
The area was first discovered during the early years of the Japanese
occupation (1895-1945) for its abundant cypress forests. There are five
things at Alishan that the tourist cannot miss: the railway, the
beautiful cypress forests, the "sea of clouds," the sunrise, and the
sunset.
The narrow-gauge alpine railway and
Alishan's famous red train take visitors up the mountain.
Alishan Railway
One of the best ways to reach Alishan is by the area's famous
narrow-gauge railway, which was built by the Japanese mainly to take
advantage of Alishan's wealth of timber resources. The track has been in
use since around 1912. Despite massive deforestation during the Japanese
occupation, the area's forests have largely been restored to their
former glory by a careful program of reforestation and logging at a
sustained rate.
The railroad certainly rates as one of the world's most scenic. The
famous red engine pushes and pulls its carriages from an elevation of 30
meters to Alishan at 2,216 meters above sea level. In good weather,
passengers can see an astounding variety of flora and fauna as the train
climbs from the subtropics to the pine forests in just 72 kilometers.
Construction of the railroad was no mean feat. The train passes through
a total of 50 tunnels and crosses 77 bridges.
The Alishan train can be taken at Chiayi (嘉義) station. A one-way
ticket costs NT$390. Return tickets are available for a 15% discount.
For details of train times, please contact the station, tel: (05)
267-9833. The journey up takes three and a half hours.
Another scenic "must"at Alishan is the
ancient "sacred tree".
Alishan's Forests
The forests of Alishan, with their magnificent old cedar trees and
pines, present a sharp contrast to the tropical palms and banana plants
of the plains around Chiayi. The area attracts large numbers of
tourists, in particular Japanese visitors, during the spring, when the
cherry trees are in bloom. During the afternoon, the forests take on an
eerie beauty, when they become enveloped in fog.
Probably the most famous tree in the Alishan Forest Recreation Area
is the "sacred tree" (神木), which is said to be over 3,000 years old.
This grand old tree was formerly one of Alishan's largest trees, but a
lightning strike reduced it to an enormous withered stump. In the 1960s
a second tree was found growing from the stump. The sacred tree can be
seen on an easy four-kilometer hike down the mountain after viewing the
sunrise at Chushan (祝山 ), or, alternatively, by train. A one-way ticket
to the sacred tree costs NT$50.
Alishan's famous "sea of clouds"is a
must-see for tourists.
Alishan's Sea of Clouds
Alishan is known throughout Taiwan for its beautiful morning views of
jagged peaks jutting out of a sea of fluffy clouds. At this time of day,
it is easy to imagine what inspired traditional Chinese ink painters in
their realistic portrayals of mountains shrouded in mists. The best time
for seeing the clouds is probably autumn, when swathes of cloud wrap the
mountain peaks. Visitors are advised that the best location to view
Alishan's famous sea of clouds is Erwanping ( 二萬坪), which is the train
stop before Alishan. The clouds appear to move in huge billowing waves,
which sometimes swallow the island-like mountain peaks. The views from
Erwanping are magnificent.
Sunrise at Chushan
Just about every visitor to Alishan will make the short train journey on
up the mountain to the prime sunrise-viewing location of Chushan. The
exact time and angle from which the sun appears depends on the season.
Sunrise experts say that the sunrise is actually quite different in
winter, spring, summer, and autumn. For instance, at summer solstice
(June 22) the sun should rise at exactly 5 a.m. from Alishan's most
northern point. At the winter solstice (December 22) sunrise comes two
hours later, at 7 a.m., and the sun rises from Alishan's most southern
point.
The journey to Chushan by train takes about 30 minutes and costs
NT$100. It is advisable to depart at least 45 minutes before sunrise
(your hotel will tell you what time the sun is scheduled to rise). Be
warned that whatever time of year you visit Alishan, it is always pretty
cold just before dawn, so wrap up well!
Hardier visitors can also take a one-hour hike up the road or along
stone steps which, at certain sections of the route, run parallel to the
railway. Even in the dark, the route is easy to pick out, especially if
you visit on a weekend when the hundreds of other tourists will lead the
way. When you reach the summit, you can enjoy a cheap breakfast from a
number of vendors while you wait for the sun to appear.
Sunset at Alishan
While not as well known as Alishan's sunrise, sunset at this popular
resort is also pretty amazing. The thin air at this elevation makes the
sun's rays particularly strong. This means that as the sun sets the sky
appears considerably more blue than normal. The best places for watching
the sun set are the Alishan Guesthouse and Tsu-yun Temple (慈雲寺).
The name of Lukang translates as "deer harbor." There was once a time
in the distant past, presumably, when wild deer roamed the
then-undeveloped plains around the town and gave it its name. There was
certainly a time when, along with Taiwan in the south and Manka (the
settlement that has become Taipei) in the north, Lukang was one of
Taiwan's three most important harbors. In those days, it was one of the
main portals through which early Chinese immigrants entered Taiwan and
trade was carried out between the island and Fukien province on the
mainland.
Times change. Today there are no deer, and siltage has moved the
seacoast far from the town. Because of the different political systems
on either side of the Taiwan Straits, no direct trade or transportation
has been possible for half a century. But the evidence of Lukang's glory
days still remains, and visitors today find ample evidence of a lively
history and a thriving Taiwanese culture that is firmly rooted in the
time-honored traditions of early immigrants from Fukien.
When you arrive in the center of Lukang after a 35-minute ride along
the nondescript highway that leads from Changhua, just south of Taichung
in central Taiwan, you immediately sense the energy of the place--the
kind of energy you feel in Shanghai or any of a thousand market towns
along China's east coast. Modernization has taken its toll here, but
many of the buildings have remained since the Japanese departed at the
end of World War II after a colonial occupation that lasted 50 years.
 
Lukang features some of Taiwan's most
spectacular temple carvings and architecture. The colorful ceiling of
Lungshan Temple(right) is an excellent example.
Going Back in Time
A good place to start your tour of the town is the Lukang Folk Arts
Museum (鹿港民俗文物館), just a short walk from the bus station. This striking
Japanese colonial structure, built in 1920, was once the home of the Koo
family, among Taiwan's largest landholders at the time.
Koo Chen-fu (辜振甫), son of the builder and chairman of the Taiwan
Cement Company, donated the building and much of its contents for use as
a museum. Its doors were opened to the public in 1973.
Most of the museum's collection consists of artifacts of daily
use--furniture, handicrafts, clothing, jewelry, Chinese curios, and the
like. Although small, the museum is intensely interesting. It is the
kind of place where just about everyone can find something to like. I
was particularly taken by the display of the "four treasures of the
Chinese studio"--brush pen, inkstone, ink, and paper, along with
paperweight, bamboo penholder, and a porcelain wrist support "for use in
the summer to prevent perspiration from smudging the paper being written
on."
Also included in this section of the museum, which is devoted to
literary objects, is a Ching dynasty (1644-1911) imperial decree written
in both Chinese characters and Manchurian script. The latter must have
been as alien to the Chinese people as were their Manchurian overlords
themselves.
The Lukang Folk Arts Museum is open all year round except for Chinese
New Year's. Its entrance fee is NT$130 (about US$5).
Lukang is famous for arts and crafts,
and many artisans such as Wu Duen-how have been granted the Living
heritage Award.
Enduring Spirituality
From the museum, walk up to Chungshan Road, and turn left. Go right at
Sanmin Road to Lungshan Temple, one of the town's two most important
temples and one of the best examples of classic Chinese architecture in
Taiwan. This is a large temple, well-preserved, and is truly impressive
in its design and its ornate carvings and paintings. The ceiling is a
particularly outstanding piece of craftsmanship. In addition to the
architecture and the art work, some of which is around 350-years-old,
this is an excellent place to observe the people of Taiwan worshipping
one of their most beloved deities: Kuanyin, the Buddhist Goddess of
Mercy.
Another outstanding place to watch people at worship is the other of
Lukang's two main temples: Tienhou (Queen of Heaven) Temple (天后宮),
located at the north end of Chungshan Road. The host deity here is Matsu,
Goddess of the Sea, who is held in special reverence by fishermen and
sailors. The constant hubbub in the temple and around its entrance gate
reflects the popularity of Matsu. A ceaseless flow of worshippers fill
the main hall, offering incense to the goddess and praying for her help.
For an example of just how lively a Taiwan temple can be, try coming
here at the time of Matsu's birthday celebration on the 23rd day of the
third lunar month (usually in April or May on the Gregorian calendar).
In the vicinity of Chungshan Road between Lungshan Temple and Tienhou
Temple are most of the other noteworthy sights in Lukang: the quaint,
narrow Nine-turns Lane (九曲巷), Half-sided Well (半邊井), and Old Market
Street (古市街), as well as a number of smaller, less prominent temples
that are nevertheless well worth a visit. There is also the Wenkai
Academy (文開書院-)--a temple, shrine, and school rolled into one.
The Lukang Folk Arts Museum offers
in-depth insights of Taiwanese history.
Where Handicraft is Art
Lukang is especially noted for the outstanding handicraft shops located
along its main street. One example is Mr. Chen's Fan Shop at 400
Chungshan Road. Chen has been making richly decorated fans for a living
since the age of 16, and--along with several other craftsmen in the
town--is a recipient of the Living Heritage Award. He, like many of the
other craftsmen here, is happy to demonstrate his skills--especially if
the demonstration leads to a sale. The fans start at NT$300 (about
US$11) and make perfect souvenirs and gifts.
Among the other shops on this street where you can see masters in
action are the Wu Duen-how Lantern Shop and the Wan-neng Tin Shop. These
are places where handicraft approaches true art.
While not as well known as its handicrafts, Lukang's cuisine is not
to be missed. A number of good restaurants are situated on or near
Chungshan Road. Oysters are a local specialty, and delicious oyster
omelets (蚵仔煎) and oyster soup (蚵仔湯) are served up at the entrance to
Tienhou Temple. Another local delicacy is ox tongue cake, a pastry with
a sweet filling that is named for its shape rather than its ingredients.
These cakes are best eaten hot off the griddle. The town also has large
numbers of bakeries offering fresh pastries, crispy snacks, and
glutinous rice cakes.
Despite Lukang's former status as a major harbor, getting to the sea
from the town today is no easy matter unless you have your own
transport. To get there on foot--a long trek--continue down the road
past Tienhou Temple. On the way to the water, you will pass open country
and oyster farms.
While Lukang has undergone tremendous changes over the past three
centuries, not least being the disappearance of its harbor, it remains a
prosperous and bustling community thriving off its historical
associations and living cultural heritage. For visitors traveling
through central Taiwan, it is an attraction not to be missed.
For more information, contact the Lukang Cultural Foundation at Tel:
(04) 778-0096.
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